Wednesday, July 21, 2010

“TANJIYA” or the Soul of Marrakech Cuisine

You could say, "Tanjiya" is to Marrakech what "Bouillabaisse" is to Marseille or Pasta is to the Italians... Marrakchis (People of Marrakech) are so proud of this historical and emblematic dish… Even though many other Moroccan cities try to claim its origin.

The recipe is very simple and delicious. Tanjiya is slowly cooked for around six hours in the ashes of wooden fire at the Farnatchi (the wood furnace that heats the Hammams/Moroccan Saunas).

The term Tanjiya means the recipient (The top three Jars of clay shown in the photo) as well as the cooked dish.

Marrakchis swear tanjiya is prepared exclusively by men and believe the reason behind the story is:

Long ago in Marrakech, during a heated dispute between a husband and his wife, the woman said to her husband: "…you loudmouth, without me you would not survive because you can’t cook your own food. "
The husband got very upset from this insidious attack. He then decided to show his wife that he would not die of starvation without her around. The fact is he knew nothing about cooking. He took all the ingredients he found in the kitchen (see recipe), mixed them in a jar made from clay (Tanjiya) and took it discreetly to the Farnatchi. The result was astonishing, a smoked and flavoured dish… The Tanjiya was born! Since that day, only Marrakchis men prepare this dish, to prove to their wives that they can survive without them.

The Marrakchis are very attached to the Tanjiya. This dish is known equally as the dish of the poor and of friendship. Craftsmen, office colleagues or students regularly organise a gathering around the famous Tanjiya.

Sociologically, Tanjiya reflects the mood of Marrakech and its people: Running in slow motion as well as invigorating; Spicy and Sweet, Rustic and Refined. Very slowly cooking which means the Tanjiya is not suitable for busy people... You need time to appreciate it in its environment. That is Marrakech and its Tanjiya.

Ingredients:
All cuts of Lamb, garlic, lots of cumin, saffron, lemon confit, Ras el hanout (a mixture of many spices), the smen (rancid butter), olive oil and water.

Method:
Combine ingredients and put them in a "Tanjiya" (a medium sized clay jar). Enclose tanjiya with baking paper and make small holes in the paper.

Preparation Time: 30 minutes

Cooking Style: The best and authentic Tanjiya should be cooked at the "Farnatchi" (wood furnace that heats the hammams) or wood fired oven. As an alternative to the Farnatchi, the Tanjiya can be cooked at home using a pressure cooker on the stove, or using Le Creuset in the oven at the lowest heat, but for many hours... Bon appétit!!!

Thursday, May 27, 2010

Old Moroccan Architecture at the Edge of Desert

I took these pictures while visiting Morocco with Alison & Zachary in 2006. I love the simplicity and the practicality of this architecture and above all its beauty. The Very thick walls and very small windows are to insulate the houses from the cold of snowy mountains during winters as well as from the heat during the very hot summers.






Tuesday, May 25, 2010

Animals in everyday life of Morocco

Donkeys, monkeys, horses... are just part of everyday life in Morocco. You see them just about everywhere. In the centre of cities as well as in the remote villages.

These animals are not only good companions but great hard workers... They are highly respected and looked after, since they participate significantly in generating money for their owners.


The Monkeys, working... and Zachary


I took the picture while I was sitting in a very unstable position on... a working Camel.


A horse, resting in the shadow


A donkey resting and eating, after long trips transporting containers of water



A farmer and his working donkey...


A refreshing drink after a long day of hard work...

Monday, May 24, 2010

Traditional Moroccan Tajine Making

I took these pictures while visiting probably the oldest wood fire kiln in Morocco, where traditional Tajines are still made. The Tajine is the oldest Moroccan dish used for cooking.

Today and while most of Tajine makers in Morocco are using electric and gas kilns, you can still find places where the wood fire kilns are the only medium to bisque as well as to glaze Tajines...


Old Wood Fire Kiln


Lids of Tajines drying in the sun, before being fired in the wood fire kiln


The man is working and preparing the clay with his feets


Two chicken, green olives and preserved Moroccan lemon Tajines...mmmmm


Long days perfecting the shape of Tajine...


and long days glazing them....

MOROCCAN SNAPSHOTS #1

Small camera in my shirt pocket... Ready to snap moments...



Un cheval avec des yeux d'un etre humain!!!



La rue est a nous, les chats...




Les oiseaux se nourissent... C'est selfservice et c'est gratuit!!!

MOROCCAN SNAPSHOTS #2



Holding the Old Fez Together...



Two Cats & One Boy...


Anybody Home!!!

Moroccan Snapshots


Coca Cola written in arabic... with the best fish & chips in Casablanca...



Traditional Oven in the country side... for baking bread (Khobz)...


Snakes without Charmer...



Our view while eating a chicken tajine in Marrakech...


Moroccan Sleepers (Balghats) with hundreds of colours....

The Best Brochettes I ate in Morocco... or I should say second best behind my mother's brochettes

It was a pure chance.... Indeed, the tenderest and most delicious brochettes I ate during my last trip to Morocco were in a restaurant in the middle of the High Atlas Mountains.

I was driving back from Ouerzezate on a windy, steep and narrow road that traced a straight line in the middle of an arid environment. Then the road became dangerously steep with frightening turns, we were in the High Atlas Mountains. Zachary started to feel sick in the back of the car. Stopping became unavoidable.

After seeing this tiny, so called, restaurant with all the Coca Cola and Fanta signs exhibited outside I stopped the car....

A very pale Zachary got out to have some fresh air and get his colour back. I was greeted by a young man wearing a very gentle smile on his face and a blue Rezza around his head (Turban), he was the cook and the owner. I asked him in Moroccan what were the specials for lunch. With big eyes and a bigger smile, he went straight to the kitchen and came back with a huge steak in his hand. We were the only customers in the restaurant. The restaurant had two small rooms and a kitchen with a large window from where I took the picture of the man preparing our lunch (see picture above). The photo says it all about this minimalist kitchen. In no time, the man diced the meat, cut the chips, tomatoes, onions and made the dressing. The brochettes were barbecued over wood charcoal on a Mejmer (Moroccan braizier). The meal was served to us accompanied with fresh mint tea. We took all our time savouring the brochettes. Zachary looked and felt much better and we hit the road, heading back to Marrakech.

Until now, I never told my mother about those brochettes, not because she makes better ones and she might be offended, but because we were always banned from eating out. She always said to us: " In a restaurant, you never know what you are really served!!!". I admit, in some cases she is right, but not today...